http://fcars.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=10104

Bear in mind that you may be changing your car from it’s factory state, so if you are worried about future re-sale value you might want to keep the original exhaust to put back on at a later date (pretty simple to do as you will see).

All parts ordered from Eurospares (unless otherwise stated).

Parts needed:

• Part No. 118353 Stainless Steel Sports Exhaust Ferrari Mondial QV 1985, Total: £450
• Part No. 118338 Gasket (O rings), Quantity: 2, Price: £6.80, Total: £13.60
• Exhaust/tailpipe compound/sealer 80-100ml, Price about £5 (eBay)
• Metal clips, Quantity 2, Price: not a lot

Optional parts that would be useful to have in case needed (due to corrosion on the existing parts):

• Part No. 10519601 Washer, Quantity: 20, Price: £0.02, Total: £0.40
• Part No. 114748 Nut, Quantity: 10, Price: £0.31, Total: £3.10
• Part No. 119632 Screw, Quantity: 6, Price: £1.50, Total: £9.00 (I couldn’t get these as they were out of stock)

Easy access to under the car is also preferable, though I could just about imagine it would be possible to fit the new exhaust without the car on a ramp, as everything is really near the back. Warning: If you do use jacks or anything like that please be very careful and ensure nothing can slip, 1.5 metrc tons of Ferrari on your head can be bad for your health. An extra pair of strong hands will come in handy too, for catching the old exhaust as it comes off and holding the new one in place while it’s bolted on.

Luckily for me a nice guy called Dean let me use his hydraulic ramps (yes handy to have your own ramps in your garage!). So a big thanks to Dean and especially Paul for their ramps, tools, help, and expertise.

The procedure is as follows, assuming, like me, you have a replacement exhaust which does not need the 90 degree mounting brackets. Instead the box has long bars coming out each side which should align with where the brackets would have been. If you are re-fitting your original exhaust obviously make sure you have these brackets (either from the current exhaust or kept from the original removal). Make sure you don’t scratch your shiny new exhaust (or the shiny tips of the old one) so have an old blanket at the ready to put them on:

1. Undo the three nuts mating the exhaust to the manifold, and repeat on the other side (fig 1), remove the screws, nuts and washers. Use plenty of WD40 as things will probably need some loosening up.
2. The main securing of the exhaust comes from the pins seen in fig 1, these attach to the right angle brackets. Get your helper ready to catch the old exhaust and remove the pins on each side, when you remove the pins the exhaust should come free. On one side of mine everything undid easily and the pin could be gently tapped out, however on the other side the bracket and pin had seized up, repeated application of WD40, heat, G clamp pressure, and moderate violence all failed. In the end Paul had to delicately cut through part of the bracket until the pin would finally budge. The cut bracket won’t be usable again, but Paul did a good job to avoid ruining the pin, as this was needed immediatly for fitting the new exhaust. Ferrari spares shops should have replacement brackets as this kind were used on a number of models (308 GT4, 308/328, Mondial).
3. Your old exhaust should be off now, wrap it up and keep it somewhere safe in case you decide to go back to it or you want to put the car back into it’s original state. It’s a good time to clean out the ends of the bare pipes, the old O ring gaskets are likely to be corroded and in bits. Tap them out gently, don’t hit the manifold hard as the vibrations could could crack it further up, if some force is needed have a helper hold the end of the pipe still as you tap it. Clean up any fouling and corrosion, leaving the two pipe ends ready for re-fitting.
4. Coat some muffler/tailpipe sealer around one side of your new O ring gaskets, place in the end of the bare pipe, and coat the exposed gasket side with some sealer. Tricky bit next: get your new exhaust in position, obviously you need to mate together the pipes, then secure the exhaust by putting the pins back in (securing depends on the fitments but basically will involve pushing back in the locking pins into either brackets or the support bars of the new exhaust to hold it in place), and finally replacing the screws/nuts/washers x3 (using new ones if you have them) on each side, making sure they are done up tight.
5. Secure the retaining pins in place by passing the wire your wire clips through the holes in the pins and folding the clips round the pin. This will make sure the pins don’t slip out.
6. Check the alignment of the pipe ends with the cut away sections of the rear of the car (next to the fog lights). Make sure there is a little space around the exhaust pipes so that it won’t be rattling against the bodywork, you might need to bend the pipe coming from the box a little to achieve this, but be gentle and take care not to scratch your shiny tips.
7. Start her up, have a listen and check the seals for any leaks (apply tailpipe sealer as needed). That’s it, you’re done, go and find a tunnel!

Once again a big thanks to Paul and Dean as none of this would have been possible without them.

b_FOBiLkas4

I know I probably go on a bit too much about making modifications vs keeping your Ferrari Mondial original, but at least alloy wheels and exhausts are easy to change either way…. but this…..?! Or am I completely wrong and does this bring the Mondial upto date, what do you think?

After doing some searches on the internet I came across a site by UK Ferrari Owners’ Club member Frazer Smith. He is an electrician who has looked into this problem in detail on his 348 and believes the solution is poor wiring: thin wires that are excessively long, providing poor earthing, resulting in the window motor not being able to draw enough current. You can read more about it on his site www.ferrariwindow.com

I ordered up a pair of his booster boxes, they arrived quickly and I was excited to see the difference they would make, especially after seeing the dramatic video on his site, and hearing about the success another Mondial owner had when he installed them.

Stripping the Ferrari Mondial QV Door

Please note the text and photos applies to the Mondial QV 3.0L 1982-1985. I know that the door release catches (and probably door panels) are different on the Mondial QV 3.2L and later models, so you will have to work those out yourself.

I eagerly set about stripping the passenger side door, see the following photos below for an illustration of the steps involved, there are quite a lot of screws to remove, be careful not to mix them up as some are subtly different (eg there is one long silver one, the rest being short). A good policy for avoiding getting confused is to draw the door on an A4 piece of paper, then lay the screws down on the drawing in the place you removed them from.

The first panel to be removed is the long, thin middle one. After removing the retaining screw at the rear end of the door it should slide out towards the rear, ie pushing towards the rear of the car if the door was closed. This will reveal lots more thick silver screws. It should be fairly easy to remove these and take off the panels one by one, but leave the panel with the speaker grill until last. The two steps to watch out for are:

Door Catch Panel
You need to remove the door opening/locking catch chrome metal surround before removing this panel. There is a small silver screw underneath the door lock catch, it’s a little tricky to get to, and you may need thin nosed pliers to lift it out once it’s unscrewed. The the door surround should now slide out slightly upwards towards the front of the door, but be careful as it’s a tight fit and may be sticky, so take care not to apply so much pressure it shoots out, scratching the leather in the process. In fact try to slide it out slowly so you can note how the back of the door catch surround has small runners which slide under the door release catch lever mechanism, as when you re-assemble the door you need to get these back under the lever so it slides back in properly.

Speaker Panel
As you take this one off be careful as the speaker is attached to the inside of the panel with wires disappearing into the door frame, you don’t want to rip these off! I found I could lay this panel face down inside the car on a small box, meaning I could still work on the stripped down door without having to physically disconnect the speaker wiring, but ensure you put a blanket down or something so as not to scratch or scuff the leather on the panel.

Right, the door should look pretty bare now, and if you lift up the flaps of cloth you should see the mysterious system of wires and pulleys that lift up the glass for the window. The motor should be in the door frame, behind roughly where the speaker sits. You can happily test the window with the door like this (though it’s probably a good idea to keep turn your engine on to prevent draining the battery). I noticed that the window did actually go up all the way fairly well like this (despite a couple of slow downs) and, I’m guessing this is due to less frictional resistance which would normally be caused by the door panel that seals the bottom of the glass on the inside.

As shown on Frazer Smith’s web site I measured the voltage across the motor when raising the window. When moving smoothly it was 10v-11v but dropped to 7v when getting stuck or slowing down severely.

The first thing I did was to remove some of the old lubricant grease which had accumulated in big, crusty blobs at some of the pulley wheels. I then applied some WD40, re-lubed up the wires and pulley wheels with some fresh mechanical oil, and worked it in by zipping the window up and down 5 or 6 times. This did seem to make the whole mechanism a lot smoother.

Next up was to try Frazer’s electric window booster box. Following the instructions on his site was easy. I shortened the wires that fed into the motor first of all, as there seemed to be about 15cm (6-7in) of slack coiled up in the door frame. The box stuck to the inside of the door no problem with some double sided tape. I managed to undo a nut which was bolting the motor to the inside door frame using a 90 degree sprocket wrench and a lot of small movements, then securely fasten the earth wire onto this. I did have to re-stick the booster box in lower position though, as I’d not taken into account the position the glass would be when I lowered the window… it was guillotining the earth wire as it approached the bottom, oops!

So did the booster box make a difference… well one thing I was pleased about was the whole window mechanism was a lot better, it now only slowed down in the two positions that it ground to a halt to before. I can’t be sure whether this was due to the booster box letting the motor draw just enough current to get past the sticky points, or just the fact that I cleaned and re-greased the mechanism (and shortened the excessively long wires to the glass lifter motor), but one thing is for sure: I now had a window that closed! I didn’t see the dramatic improvement that can be seen in Frazer’s video of his 348, though I have spoken to him (he is a really nice guy) and there are still some things I can try, as he seemed to think I should get the dramatic speed increase, as in his video. It may well be that the earth connection from the door itself to the rest of the car is not very good, so if I improve this then the booster box may kick in better. When I get some spare time I’ll probably give it a go and post an update.

Though I love the purist idea of keeping the car as close to it’s original state as possible, one area of the car has been annoying me. I’ve only had my Mondial a week but I’m tired of having no music, the reason being the car still has the original Blaupunkt radio/tape player. It switches on and can get garbled radio reception, but it makes a very odd crunching sound if you try to put a tape in and doesn’t play them, not that I really have any tapes anymore anyway. Given that: all the Mondials I’ve been in (that would be five or so) have had CD players fitted, that I have a rudimentary knowlege of basic electronics, and I fitted a CD player to my old Ford Fiesta 10 years ago I thought I’d try getting an upto date head unit into the Mondial via a DIY upgrade! Although this guide is for a Ferrari Mondial it might also be applicable to Ferrari 308/328s. Indeed I’m guessing that there are few 80s Ferraris left with their original radios, so this guide will be of more use for people looking to upgrade a first generation CD player unith with a more current CD/MP3 radio with aux input for ipod or other external player.

Parts list for removal and installation (assuming original factory wiring and head unit):

• New head unit eg Sony Radio/CD/MP3 with Aux input (for ipod): £80
• Car radio release tools, see pic for tools needed to replace the original Blaupunkt. For newer head units check your local car accessories shop: couple of pounds
• screwdrivers, spanners, wire cutters/strippers, crimping tool (or pliers)

All my parts were purchased from Halfords.

New head units come with standard ISO connectors which are also found on modern day cars. My 1985 Ferrari isn’t going to have this standard ISO connector, so there are two options:

1. Cut all the ends off the wires on the car audio leads, cut the ISO connector off the head unit and splice them all together. This worked great for my Ford Fiesta I did 10 years ago, but it’s messey and makes future upgrades more difficult, plus it smacks of dodgy workmanship
2. For £20 more you can buy an ISO adaptor connector which has the plug one end and bare wires the other. These bare wires can then be crimped into one half of bullet connectors adaptors, with the other end going on the Ferrari wires (which will need to have their non-standard ends cut off), but the result it a neat, professionally done, and easily upgradable wiring system. You are working on a Ferrari after all. For this method you will need a couple more parts:
   • 2 packs of bullet connectors (8 male/female connectors total): £6
   • 1 car audio ISO connector adapter plug with bare wires one end: £15

Total cost of parts £100.

Step 1: Remove carpets and plastic covering panel

• Turn off you battery via the switch under the front bonnet (or if you do not have a manual switch then disconnect one of the battery terminal leads)
• a) pull back floor carpet
• b) pull away side carpet from velcro fastening at bottom
• c) unscrew big screw and 3-4 smaller screws along top of plastic panel covering the insides of the middle column

You should now be looking at something that resembles diagram 1b below.

Step 2: Unbolt old radio head unit and remove

Get your head down there in the footwell, you should now be able to see the back of the head unit. Look for the nut that’s keeping it bolted to a metal retaining plate (a good idea to keep it steady, avoid vibration and prevent it being easily removed).

• a) Undo this nut, be careful not to drop it as you may not be able to retrieve it!Thanks to Carl Verdi for revealing how to get to the bolt.
• b) Insert your head unit release tools into the pairs of holes either side of the front of the Blaupunkt. Push them in really far and then push them outwards to try to get a grip. It can be tricky as the radio is a tight fit in the metal sleeve. It’s much easier if you can get someone to push the unit from behind (where you just removed the nut from) as you pull the release tools.
• As the head unit comes out the aerial lead (usually on the back right hand side of the unit if you are looking at it from the front) may not have enough slack, so unplug it

• As the back of the head unit comes out of the dashboard, have a look at how the wires at the back are connected. You will have to unplug these to finally get the unit out, but if you have a non-original radio there may be a diagram on the unit which will help identify which wires are which (eg speak left, 12v constant, etc), so make a note
•  c) You can now remove the old metal sleeve that the head unit was jammed into, as more than likely your new radio will come with it’s own one that you can slide in carefully, according to the manufacturer’s instructions

Tips:

• It’s a good idea to put a cloth down over your warning lights and grear stick gate as dust, etc will likely spew out as you remove the head unit
• The front plastic face of the Blaupunkt may rip off, and the buttons explode everywhere. Don’t be too alarmed by this, but pick them all up so you can piece it back together later if you are bored
• Warning: the metal sleeve and old head unit edges (especially if the front has come off) are razor sharp! Get the old thing out of the car as soon as possible. I foolishly left it in the footwell while I carried on and it managed to rub and scratch some of the surrounding leather (grr!)

Step 3: Re-wire old style connectors

If you have just removed the original radio you should see the connectors in the photo, else what you see may be completely different as the original wires may have already been wired into newer connectors. You should be able to see the original wire colours somewhere. Basically if the connectors you have look like they are compatible with your new radio you are in luck and you can skip to the next step (fitting), if not then you will likely have to proceed below as though you had the original connectors.

Do steps 1-4 below for existing Ferrari wires: 12v constant, 12v switch, 12v ignition, speaker front right (positive and negative), speaker front left (positive and negative). Do one wire at a time to avoid confusion:

• 1. Cut the ends off the existing car radio wires
• 2. Strip the wires to 6 or 7mm
• 3. Use crimping tool (or pliers) to lock ends into female bullet connectors
• 4. Important: Use a permanent pen or some kind of system to label each female bullet connector or wire, as those brown wires will look identical after putting the female bullet connectors on!
• Your ISO adapter connector should have pre-stripped wires, attach the male bullet connectors to these
• Plug the male bullet connectors from the ISO adapter into the corresponding female bullet connector of your car wiring. My ISO adapter came with a handy colour code diagram on the back, plus all the wires had what they were printed on them in tiny print
• Insulate any bare wire ends not being used (these should only be on the ISO adapter side, unless you don’t plan to connect, or don’t have, the 12v switch wire that sends the Ferrari aerial up)

Step 4: Install new CD/Radio head unit

• Inset the metal sleeve that came with your head unit into the slot, and bend up all the fins you can to lock it into place. Warning: Be really careful when bending those fins, especially if you are using a screwdriver. I slipped as I was trying to bend one that wouldn’t actually budge, and very nearly gashed my lovely black leather above the gearstick, or even worse I was pushing so hard it could have gone right through. So either push gently, or use something blunt & wooden, rather than a sharp edged screwdriver.
• You can now finally slide in your new radio! Don’t forget to plug in the aerial lead first. The radio will probably be a tight fit into the sleeve, but should fit perfectly. Catch the ISO connector as it comes out the back into the wiring area, then simply plug it into your newly wired ISO adapter setup.
• Remember the retaining nut and plate that held the original head unit in place? My radio came with a smooth, protruding bar at the back, and a tight fitting rubber nut, so I used this to secure the unit to the back plate. I actually had to loosen the nut that was holding the back plate in place, then rotate the back plate slightly as it was hindering the wiring block on the back of the radio, stopping the radio going back fully. You radio might come with a threaded bar at the back, so you could use the original retaining nut. Either way it’s a good idea to lock it in place to this back plate to stop vibration, and for security (though if someone broke into my classic Ferrari I’d be more worried about the physical car damage rather than an 80 quid radio!).
• At this point you can turn your battery back on, and give the radio a test! Check that sound is coming out of both left and right speakers, that the aerial pops up when the unit is switched on, and that it goes down when the unit is switched off. Put all your wiring back into the central column, and reverse step one to get all the carpets back into place.You should be left with something like diagram 4 and an upto date CD/radio/mp3 player!